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Archive of articles:
Balsamic vinegar: between myth and tradition
Balsamic vinegar: between myth and tradition IL "BALSAMICO", UN ACETO TRA MITO E TRADIZIONE

Someone defined the age-old production of balsamic vinegar as the “philosophy of the impossible,” an ambitious (but, in our case, successful!) attempt to harmoniously blend the two contrasting flavors of sweet and sour. Our success has been verified and proven through the centuries by the production and use of this “divin dulci” that is emotionally and ritually rooted in our past and in various Dionysian myths. A labyrinth of vineyards was already growing when man began his journey towards civilization. The concept was adapted from the very beginning of recorded history and from the first Italic, Etruscan, and Roman civilizations. Time and destiny did the rest. In fact, balsamic vinegar is defined as different, because it does not deteriorate like common vinegars made from alcohol. Instead, it spontaneously reveals a sublime nature and distinct personality acquired from the sweet grape must. To eliminate all doubts on this subject, every producer has to adequately cook the grape must to reduce as much as possible its water content, thus protecting it from spoilage. Balsamic vinegar’s destiny is to be a traveler through time in caches of small precious casks made of various types of wood, while remaining true to its origins: although it undergoes acetification, it never loses its original sweetness.

Through the years balsamic vinegar strives to strike the proper balance between smoothness and pungency in continuous and intense interaction within the small vessels. The alchemy of time and man’s skillful intervention accentuate its “balsamic” nature. The history of a family, of a people, and of a land are stored within the balsamic vinegar they produce. Without fanfare it is brought down from the upper floors of the balsamic vinegar factory and quietly enters every single kitchen. It finds its proper and interesting use in every one of these kitchens. Balsamic vinegar does not immediately reveal itself; instead, those who know how to listen to and understand it with their hearts are amply rewarded. Up until a short time ago balsamic vinegar had always been a local and provincial product, but now it is exported all over the world. But what about in the past? For many centuries it was simply the vinegar of the home, defined as “balsamic” because it had always been effectively used for many purposes even outside of the kitchen. It was used to cure, medicate, console, strengthen, gratify, and solve a family’s large and small health problems. It was produced in the home in ancient times; note the domestic pathos with which Virgil describes the “cooking of the grape must” in his georgic verses:

"... his woman boils down the grape must over the fire,

Into a sweet syrup, and with leafy branches skims,

The bubbling liquid within the copper vessel.”

Balsamic vinegar originated in the portion of the Po Valley that subsequently fell under the control of the house of Este. To be historically more precise, it was originally produced in those territories belonging to the city of Modena, which was to become the capital of the Este Dukedom after Ferrara was abandoned. In these lands one of the most ancient production traditions in the world was developed and consolidated. A spontaneous and natural process combining sky, sun, and fire as well as extremely long periods of time amalgamates and enhances this extraordinary product. Although balsamic vinegar has had a wide range of uses through the ages, it is its incredible versatility in the kitchen that places it at the heights of the culinary arts. Even without taking into account its use in the home on salads or fresh vegetables, it can be used in a multitude of ways to prepare any portion of any meal, whether it be casual or formal, to create an out-of-the-ordinary olfactory and gustatory experience. The use of balsamic vinegar in a sauce, on grilled meat, or in pasta dishes is truly a rare marriage of ingredients in which the cook is not simply in charge, but must assume the fundamental role of marriage consultant when deciding how to combine the various ingredients in search of that equilibrium that will turn a banal dish into a dish flavored with balsamic vinegar.

It goes without saying that the preciousness of this ingredient and its extraordinary possibilities always require a moment of reflection regarding its most opportune use. In fact, balsamic vinegar is very versatile, but also very “unforgiving.” Its injudicious use risks ruining a dish. An interesting fact is that it is not possible to estimate beforehand how much is required for a recipe. This is because every bottle of balsamic vinegar is unique. Thus, before using it, it is always best to taste a bit on the end of a spoon, to get a better idea of that specific balsamic vinegar’s fullness of flavor and tartness. This will allow you to judge whether it would be best to use it, for example, on a cutlet or on a fresh salad, instead.

Balsamic vinegar contains a whole universe of taste sensations and surprises! Books and recipe books have been written about it and it has been talked about and discussed with passion, but above all it has proven to be a great culinary ally. Balsamic vinegar is timeless. It is worth noting the great French lawyer Brillat Savarin’s words written more than 100 years ago which, in my opinion, best describe this unique product that is not just a condiment, but that carries all the mystique and fascination of its millennial history and bears testimony to the incredible faith of man in its preservation: “Gastronomy examines men and all things, to bring from one country to another all that is worth getting to know...”

A wise deduction which the tradition of balsamic vinegar has adopted as its own!

Prof. Renato Bergonzini

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