Someone defined the
age-old production of balsamic vinegar as the “philosophy of the impossible,”
an ambitious (but, in our case, successful!) attempt to harmoniously blend the
two contrasting flavors of sweet and sour. Our success has been verified and
proven through the centuries by the production and use of this “divin dulci”
that is emotionally and ritually rooted in our past and in various Dionysian
myths. A labyrinth of vineyards was already growing when man began his journey
towards civilization. The concept was adapted from the very beginning of
recorded history and from the first Italic, Etruscan, and Roman civilizations.
Time and destiny did the rest. In fact, balsamic vinegar is defined as
different, because it does not deteriorate like common vinegars made from
alcohol. Instead, it spontaneously reveals a sublime nature and distinct personality
acquired from the sweet grape must. To eliminate all doubts on this subject,
every producer has to adequately cook the grape must to reduce as much as
possible its water content, thus protecting it from spoilage. Balsamic
vinegar’s destiny is to be a traveler through time in caches of small precious
casks made of various types of wood, while remaining true to its origins:
although it undergoes acetification, it never loses its original sweetness.
Through the years
balsamic vinegar strives to strike the proper balance between smoothness and
pungency in continuous and intense interaction within the small vessels. The
alchemy of time and man’s skillful intervention accentuate its “balsamic”
nature. The history of a family, of a people, and of a land are stored within
the balsamic vinegar they produce. Without fanfare it is brought down from the
upper floors of the balsamic vinegar factory and quietly enters every single
kitchen. It finds its proper and interesting use in every one of these
kitchens. Balsamic vinegar does not immediately reveal itself; instead, those
who know how to listen to and understand it with their hearts are amply
rewarded. Up until a short time ago balsamic vinegar had always been a local
and provincial product, but now it is exported all over the world. But what
about in the past? For many centuries it was simply the vinegar of the home,
defined as “balsamic” because it had always been effectively used for many
purposes even outside of the kitchen. It was used to cure, medicate, console,
strengthen, gratify, and solve a family’s large and small health problems. It
was produced in the home in ancient times; note the domestic pathos with which
Virgil describes the “cooking of the grape must” in his georgic verses:
"... his woman
boils down the grape must over the fire,
Into a sweet syrup,
and with leafy branches skims,
The bubbling liquid
within the copper vessel.”
Balsamic vinegar
originated in the portion of the Po Valley that subsequently fell under the
control of the house of Este. To be historically more precise, it was
originally produced in those territories belonging to the city of Modena, which
was to become the capital of the Este Dukedom after Ferrara was abandoned. In
these lands one of the most ancient production traditions in the world was
developed and consolidated. A spontaneous and natural process combining sky,
sun, and fire as well as extremely long periods of time amalgamates and
enhances this extraordinary product. Although balsamic vinegar has had a wide
range of uses through the ages, it is its incredible versatility in the kitchen
that places it at the heights of the culinary arts. Even without taking into
account its use in the home on salads or fresh vegetables, it can be used in a
multitude of ways to prepare any portion of any meal, whether it be casual or
formal, to create an out-of-the-ordinary olfactory and gustatory experience.
The use of balsamic vinegar in a sauce, on grilled meat, or in pasta dishes is
truly a rare marriage of ingredients in which the cook is not simply in charge,
but must assume the fundamental role of marriage consultant when deciding how
to combine the various ingredients in search of that equilibrium that will turn
a banal dish into a dish flavored with balsamic vinegar.
It goes without saying
that the preciousness of this ingredient and its extraordinary possibilities
always require a moment of reflection regarding its most opportune use. In
fact, balsamic vinegar is very versatile, but also very “unforgiving.” Its
injudicious use risks ruining a dish. An interesting fact is that it is not
possible to estimate beforehand how much is required for a recipe. This is
because every bottle of balsamic vinegar is unique. Thus, before using it, it
is always best to taste a bit on the end of a spoon, to get a better idea of
that specific balsamic vinegar’s fullness of flavor and tartness. This will
allow you to judge whether it would be best to use it, for example, on a cutlet
or on a fresh salad, instead.
Balsamic vinegar contains
a whole universe of taste sensations and surprises! Books and recipe books have
been written about it and it has been talked about and discussed with passion,
but above all it has proven to be a great culinary ally. Balsamic vinegar is
timeless. It is worth noting the great French lawyer Brillat Savarin’s words
written more than 100 years ago which, in my opinion, best describe this unique
product that is not just a condiment, but that carries all the mystique and
fascination of its millennial history and bears testimony to the incredible
faith of man in its preservation: “Gastronomy examines men and all things,
to bring from one country to another all that is worth getting to know...”
A wise deduction which
the tradition of balsamic vinegar has adopted as its own!